Worth installing a cavity tray to 1930s brick house?

Question

It looks like front door surround has no cavity tray in a 1930s red brick house. Is it worth retrofitting a cavity tray or rely on other ways for damp proofing like stormdry treatment?

Niall · Accepted Answer

Me personally I would always fit a damp tray over a lintel.Make sure your dpc goes past your lintel 225mm plus 100 mm for your turn up to form your envelope.turn up is 65 mm height of a brick or bigger if old imperial brick.Start your wee poles at your turn up & every 450 mm.I hope that helped in some way👍

Roy · Answer

A 1930 house would not have cavity tray s your best bet and cheaper way would to paint your brick work in Thompson damp proofread dries clear and acts like a glass water will just run down brick work

Richard · Answer

best way is to take off 1 meter high internal render and apply tanking

John · Answer

A cavity try will only work if there is a cavity and over any thing that bridges the cavity

Gerard · Answer

Cavity tray is always good in my eyes I'm a bricklayer and I wouild always do one

Dave · Answer

Cavity trays are normally horizontal which in the 1930s were a rarity you probably mean the reveals or door jambs which they left the 2inch cavity and covered with the door/window frame you can install dpc to the revealsand make good afterwards Have you got a damp problem

Mark · Answer

It is most likely a solid brick wall construction if built in 1930s . Cavity tray   not required.

Callum · Answer

I would put cavity’s trays in above your your lintels if you have and In if not I would get someone in to put a lintel in then cavity tray over the top with weep vents

Chris · Answer

The best this to do is black jack and tank outside . Maybe add extra skin

Tim · Answer

If its 1930 house it may not have a cavity it will probably be 9 inch solid  brick workso there  would be  no tray

Worth installing a cavity tray to 1930s brick house?

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