Builders
Carpenters
Electricians
Flooring Specialists
Gardeners
Handymen
Heating Engineers
Painters & Decorators
Plasterers & Renderers
Plumbers
Roofers
Tilers
myAsk a Trade
Got a question that only a tradesperson can answer? We have thousands of trades ready to answer any question you may have.
Ask your question
How to Install a Radiator
This guide covers how to replace or change an old radiator, or fit a new one onto existing pipework. This also applies if you're simply upgrading an old model.
Fitting a radiator where there's no existing pipework in place, or moving a radiator to a new wall, is a different job altogether. Our radiator replacement costs guide covers how much a swap would cost in more detail.
We'll include a list of all the tools and materials you need, as well as a step-by-step guide to help you fit a radiator safely and correctly.
Let's get started!
Table of Contents
What Tools Do I Need to Install a Radiator?
Below is a list of the tools you will need to install a radiator:
- Cordless drill
- Adjustable spanner
- Radiator valve tail key
- Radiator bleed key
- Pipe and cable detector
- Dust sheet
- Cloths or rags
- Tape measure
- Pencil
- Spirit level
- Knee pads
What Safety Equipment Do I Need to Install a Radiator?
You usually won't need any specific safety equipment when installing a radiator.
However, when completing a radiator installation as a DIY job, you may need someone to help you lift the radiators as they can be heavy and hard to manoeuvre.
This way, you can safely lift the radiators on and off the wall without injuring yourself.
What Materials Do I Need to Install a Radiator?
The list below highlights all of the materials that you will need to install a radiator:
- The new radiator
- Radiator brackets and fixings
- PTFE tape
- Radiator valves
- Corrosion inhibitor
- Wall plugs and screws
- Sealant (optional)
When choosing a radiator, you need to consider how it will be heated, with the main options including:
Central Heating Radiators
This type of radiator is commonly used in most households.
It consists of a metal panel which contains hot water, heated by the boiler. The heat is then distributed to the radiators throughout the home.
Electric Radiators
If your home doesn't have access to the mains gas supply, an electric radiator is typically the best option.
Electric radiators also have a container, filled with fluid (generally thermo-fluid), which is heated by an electric element. You can plug one straight into an existing socket as a simple DIY job. Wiring one into its own dedicated circuit, though, is notifiable electrical work under the Building Regulations, so it must either be done by an electrician registered with a competent person scheme, who can self-certify it, or notified to building control for approval.
Dual Fuel Radiators
Dual-fuel models are essentially central heating radiators with a summer heating element, which gives you the option of using electric if the central heating is turned off.
There are various radiator styles, such as:
Single-Panel Radiators
Single-panel radiators are the most basic radiator style.
They are typically mounted to the wall, and are ideal for compact spaces, as they do not take up a lot of room.
Double-Panel Radiators
Double-panel radiators are essentially two single panels.
They are also mounted to the wall, and face outwards towards the room. They tend to take up more space than single radiators due to their protruding from the wall in contrast to single panels, but they do offer double the power.
Horizontal Radiators
This type of radiator is wider than it is tall, and is normally installed under windows, as it was traditionally used to combat cold draughts.
These are commonly used as they tend to fit in a wide range of spaces.
Vertical Radiators
In comparison to horizontal models, vertical radiators are taller than they are wide.
These offer a modern design which works well with contemporary décor. They also tend to offer space-saving benefits.
Column Radiators
Column radiators feature a row of tubes which connect at the bottom and the top of the radiator to form a single design.
These tend to suit more traditional, classic décor, as they mimic Victorian-style models.
Heated Towel Radiators
Heated towel rails or ladder rails are typically installed in bathrooms to keep your towels warm after a shower or bath.
The design includes horizontal rails, which are perfect for hanging towels, and they can also heat up your bathroom, although this is only the second function.
How to Remove a Radiator
Removing a radiator is the first half of replacing one. It's also worth knowing how to do this if you just need to take the radiator down temporarily, for example while decorating.
- Fully close the lockshield valve, keeping note of exactly how many turns it takes. Then, close the thermostatic or handwheel valve.
- Next, release the water pressure in your radiator by opening the bleed screw. Have a bowl ready to catch any water.
- Place a container under the radiator and valve, slowly undo the lockshield valve connector nut, and drain off the water.
- Undo the connector nut from the other valve so you can easily lift the radiator away from the wall.
- Lift your radiator off the wall brackets, and then tip out the remaining water.
- This old radiator is now ready to be disposed of, and you can move on to installing your new radiator.
If you're only removing the radiator temporarily, leave the valves closed and the wall brackets in place until you're ready to refit it.
How to Fit a Radiator to Existing Pipes (Step by Step Guide)
To fit a radiator to existing pipework correctly, follow our step-by-step guide below.
Step 1: Prepare the Valve Tails
Remove and clean the old PTFE from the radiator valve tails using a tail key, then apply new PTFE ready for fitting to the new radiator.
Wrap the tape around the valve in the right direction. If you're holding the valve in your left hand, the tape should rotate clockwise.
Step 2: Remove the Old Wall Brackets
Once the new PTFE is applied, remove your old wall brackets ready for replacing them with new ones. These will usually need to be unscrewed from the wall.
Step 3: Mark the Bracket Positions
Measure the distance between the radiator's fixing points and the height of its valve connections above the floor. Transfer these measurements to the wall, marking lines where the new brackets need to go.
Step 4: Check the Wall for Hidden Pipes and Cables
Before you drill, use a pipe and cable detector to check the marked area. This helps you avoid damaging anything hidden behind the wall.
Step 5: Drill and Plug the Fixing Holes
Drill pilot holes at your marked points and insert wall plugs ready for the brackets.
Step 6: Fix the Wall Brackets
Position the first bracket against your marked line and screw it into place. Fix the second bracket according to your measurements, using a spirit level to check both brackets line up.
Step 7: Hang the Radiator and Check the Fit
With a friend or family member to help, as radiators can be heavy, place the radiator onto the brackets to check the valve connections line up correctly.
Step 8: Adjust the Brackets if Needed
If the connections don't quite line up, take the radiator down, loosen the bracket screws, and slide the brackets slightly until the fit is right.
Step 9: Fit the Valve Tails and Bleed Valve
Take the radiator down again and fit the valve tails and bleed valve.
Step 10: Hang the Radiator and Tighten the Connectors
Hang the radiator onto the brackets and tighten the connectors to the valves. Brace each valve with a wrench while you tighten it fully.
Step 11: Top Up the Corrosion Inhibitor
Once the radiator is installed, top up the system's corrosion inhibitor, since some will have been lost when you drained the water. If you have an open-vented system with a feed and expansion tank in the loft, add the inhibitor there. Most modern homes have a sealed system with a combi or system boiler, which has no header tank. In this case, add inhibitor through a radiator, your system filter, or the filling loop using a dosing adaptor. Check inhibitor levels once a year, whichever system you have.
Step 12: Open the Valves
Open both valves by the number of turns it took to close them off.
Step 13: Bleed the Radiator
Bleed the radiator using a radiator bleed key to release any trapped air. If you're not sure how, see our guide on how to bleed a radiator.
Step 14: Check the Boiler Pressure
If you have a sealed system, check the boiler pressure, and top up if required.
Step 15: Check for Leaks and Turn On the Heating
Once the job is complete, check for leaks and make sure your heating is switched on.
Can I Fit a Radiator Myself?
Swapping an old radiator for a new one on existing pipework is a task many confident DIYers can manage with basic plumbing tools and a bit of patience. It usually involves draining the old radiator, fitting new brackets, and connecting the new radiator to the valves already in place.
You might prefer to call a plumber if the job involves new pipework, moving a radiator to a different position, or a home with microbore pipework, which needs specialist fittings. A corroded or seized valve can also turn a straightforward swap into a more challenging situation.
Fitting or replacing a radiator counts as water-side plumbing, not gas work, so you don't need a Gas Safe registered engineer for it. Gas Safe registration is only required for anything that involves the boiler itself or its gas supply.
A like-for-like swap doesn't need building regulations approval, but adding a new radiator to the heating system might, so check before going ahead with any DIY work.
For more on choosing and fitting radiators generally, see our radiator installation guide.
FAQs
Do I Need to Drain the Whole System to Install a New Radiator?
If you're just replacing one radiator, you'll only need to drain that original radiator. If you're making bigger changes throughout your house, such as replacing all your radiators, draining all or part of your system might be necessary.
What Size Radiator Do I Need?
Your radiator size depends on the required heat output for the room, measured in British Thermal Units (BTUs). This is usually calculated by multiplying the room's cubic feet by 5 for a lounge or dining room, 4 for a bedroom, or 3 for a kitchen, but your heating engineer will be able to give you professional advice if you're unsure. Well-insulated, modern rooms often need less than the calculation suggests.
Where Should My Radiators Be Positioned?
It's common to find radiators beneath windows in older properties, as they're often the coldest part of the room. In newer homes, the better insulation means you have more flexibility in radiator positioning.
Do I Need Thermostatic Radiator Valves (TRVs)?
You don't necessarily need to fit TRVs, but they are recommended, as they allow you to set the temperature required for each room to boost your energy efficiency.
Do I Need to Top up Boiler Pressure After Fitting a Radiator?
Yes, on sealed systems it's common to see a drop in pressure after installing a radiator. You can top this up yourself using the filling loop.
How Much Does It Cost to Have a Radiator Fitted?
For a like-for-like swap onto existing pipework, a plumber will typically charge between £70 and £150 in labour, and the job usually takes 1 to 2 hours. Supplied and fitted, expect around £150 to £300 for a standard panel radiator, with designer and vertical models costing more.
